The wind was bracing, chilling my cheeks. I thought I’d put on enough warm layers for the boat tour, but I found myself shivering on the bow when the guide reminded us that we could go below deck to warm up with tea and cookies. The fjords were gorgeous, but it was too freezing to enjoy them. That seemed like the best option for me. I didn’t have my gloves and kept taking pictures with my phone, so my knuckles were starting to get raw. Really this was just the tip of the iceberg — so far, my trip had...